FIRST IMPRESSION OF JAPAN 1988
I usually took Korean Airlines from Montreal to the Philippines. I would stay overnight in a luxurious hotel paid by the airlines in Seoul and resume my flight the next day.
I was persuaded on this occasion to travel by Japan Airlines and it was much the same deal. I stayed at the Nikko hotel, a very beautiful, modern building of maybe a thousand rooms set a few miles in the countryside from Narita Airport.
After a welcome soak in a deep tub with a curious rubber ball as plug and the many white towels provided, I slept soundly in the mini- suite with its own bathroom, TV. refrigerator and panoramic views of the forested hills. There were excellent meals, also free for airline guests, in the opulent restaurants . I paid for several Kirin beers which were fantastically expensive. On later trips to Japan I learned to buy Santori akai whisky at a liquor store for about three dollars American for a hip flask.
Next morning, since my flight did not leave until noon, I checked my bag at the desk in the lobby and decided to walk out into the surrounding countryside.
Instead of passing along the sidewalk of the busy road, I entered a picturesque lane. Peering through a fence I saw a delightful scene. A small creek ran under a culvert into a pond. All around clumps of thin bamboos grew wild .and flowering shrubs grew, as if untended.
Without a thought of trespass I climbed over the fence and I threaded my way carefully through the bamboos to the creek.. I must have been quiet because I saw a badger beside the pool and it did not seem to be aware of me. It was grubbing around at the side of the pond, making little snuffling sounds.
I have seen badgers before but this one actually looked Japanese. It reminded me of just how their artists paint animals, with economy of line, upswept whiskers and eyes with an oriental set.. The whole scene with twisted willows, clumps of bamboo, the pond and stream with its little musical gurgles of sound, mesmerized me.
When the badger moved away leisurely, unconcerned with my presence and was lost from view, I passed along a small path towards a building a few yards further on, descending the little rivulet over rocks that appeared to have been set in place for decoration, but I think they were just naturally there. The small building was a kind of wooden shed with a roof of curved timbers and earthenware tiles overlapping , as seen in temples.
Steam was rising from behind a partition. I saw a girl’s arm rise up and pour water onto her hair. She moved outside the area onto a wooden platform, scooping water over her body from a wooden tub..
Then she saw me and gave out a little cry of surprise, dropping a plastic scoop and covering her breasts with one hand and another place with the other.
The spell was broken. I retreated to the fence and hastily climbed over. Not looking back I hurried up the lane and joined the sidewalk of the arterial road where cars sped down to Tokyo.
Five minutes of brisk walking took me to my hotel and as I walked into the foyer, a doorman greeted me “ Anata wa nihon ni suki desuka?”
“Yes” I replied “I like Japan very much.”
….Ric Williams.
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